READ TIME: 8 MINUTES
When you’ve lived in the same place for years, it’s easy to take the remarkable opportunities around you for granted. Stepping outside your familiar surroundings can shift your perspective, giving you the space to reflect and recognize the value of what’s been there all along. Sometimes, you need to step away to truly appreciate the beauty that surrounds you.
Did someone say “Summer Road Trip!!!”
Tucked away in the far northwestern corner of Vancouver Island lies Cape Scott Provincial Park. But if you’ve heard of it, it’s likely because of one spot in particular—San Josef Bay, often named one of the best beaches in the world. With so many beaches across the globe, how did this hidden gem in Canada earn that title? Curiosity got the best of me. After seeing countless Instagram posts, I knew I had to experience it for myself.
We packed up our Ford Escape for a weeklong summer adventure. From Vancouver, the journey stretches 529 km—about eight hours, including a ferry ride. Timing, however, was tricky. Our trip landed on the busiest weekend of the year: the peak of summer in B.C. Ferries were booked solid weeks in advance, but we managed to snag an 8 a.m. Thursday sailing from Tsawwassen to Nanaimo. Leaving the city behind, we were ready to finally enjoy what makes this expensive province worthwhile—nature and solitude.
This was my first time driving so far north on the island, and I couldn’t wait to see the landscapes unfold. Knowing cell service would be patchy, I preloaded maps with photo stops and was grateful I did. Between towns, you’ll find little to no data coverage, so downloaded directions and watching for signage are essential.
To reach Cape Scott, you’ll drive a 68 km forest service road—a journey that takes an hour and a half at best. The gravel demands slow speeds, and for us, the low sun and swirling dust clouds made visibility even more challenging. At times, the sharp shift from blinding light to deep shadow left my eyes struggling to adjust.
Along the way, you’ll pass Holberg, a tiny community with just one general store and one restaurant—the Scarlet Ibis. It’s your last real chance to stock up on food and fuel. From there, the road carries you to the Cape Scott parking lot, where the trailhead to San Josef Bay begins. The lot itself fits around 60 cars, but on long weekends it can overflow with more than 200.
The hike in is an easy 45-minute walk, mostly flat and wide enough to haul camping gear on a trolley. Camping is allowed on the First and Second Beaches, both of which offer plenty of space. Just remember to pay the small backcountry fee to BC Parks—online or via the envelope system on-site. Rangers patrol the area, and with local wildlife like bears, cougars, and wolves, dogs are only allowed leashed at First and Second Beach.
Then comes the reward. The beach opens up like a secret world—fine white sand sheltered from harsh ocean winds. Most beaches in B.C. are rocky, so stepping onto something this soft feels rare. Between First and Second Beach lies the real treasure: the sea stacks and caves, natural formations that have become the iconic images of San Josef Bay. It’s here that everyone gathers, cameras in hand.
As a photographer, I had to remind myself to pause and soak it all in before rushing to capture the perfect shot. I waited for high tide, hoping it would wash away the footprints in the sand, but nature had other plans. In the end, I worked with what the day gave me—time, light, and tide—and improvised my way to images I’ll never forget.
We camped overnight at the nearby WFP campsite, a rustic, free, first-come-first-served spot with nothing more than pit toilets. The riverside setting is peaceful, but bring bug spray—the mosquitoes and horseflies don’t show any mercy.
Skip Heritage Campsite unless you’re absolutely desperate—it’s basically abandoned. It feels straight out of a horror movie. If you’re into creepy cabin vibes, this is where the story starts. Otherwise, best to steer clear.
Instead of hiking to the beach, you can take a more adventurous route—kayak or paddleboard down the San Josef River. We launched from our campsite at WFP, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it. The route was tricky: navigating under fallen trees, portaging through shallow sections, and even removing our fins at times. A better option is the boat launch at Heritage Campsite, which makes for a smoother start.
Plan for about two hours round trip, depending on the tides. The river itself is calm, serene, and stunning—a peaceful paddle surrounded by nature. As you approach the ocean, expect a shift. The wind picks up, and you’ll have to push through it to reach the beach. With a boat, you can access secluded stretches of shoreline most visitors never see.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS
Dusty Gravel Road
The forest service road is rough—drive slowly to avoid potholes and sharp rocks. Lowering your tire pressure can reduce the risk of punctures, and always carry a spare.
Drinking Water
Freshwater streams can be found near Second Beach, but bring a water filter. Fill your containers during low tide, as the trail becomes much more challenging at high tide.
Forever Sweater Weather
Don’t let summer fool you—temperatures rarely climb above 24°C. Pack warm layers and a rain jacket to stay comfortable during chilly, damp nights.
San Josef Bay is a true hidden gem, one few experience because of its isolation—that’s what makes it so special. If you love outdoor adventure, this destination deserves a spot on your list. There are easier-to-reach beaches on Vancouver Island with similar vibes, but if you’re craving something truly off the beaten path, spend two to three nights at San Josef Bay. It’s worth every moment.
